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The italian fashion today

The Italian fashion is born endured after the Second World war and initially it is not neither “high” neither prêt-à-porter, is simply the Italian fashion. Only on in February 1951, in occasion of first paraded organised in Florence by Gian Battista Giorgini, we have the distances of the fashion and are born the first embryos of the so-called “the high one prêt-à-porter” which Florence moves to Milan, where will catch up the excellence with the great names of the fashion. In the course of years ’80 of century XX in Italy they are asserted, with to the cult of success, the new values of the individualism and the hedonism: in this period the made in Italy, the stile produced in Italy, catches up the apex of the notoriety all other the world. Milan, where the paraded ones of the prêt-à-porter are carried out, that is of the collection realised on industrial scale, challenges the supremacy of the fashion to Paris. Above all, in years ’80 the figure of the designer is are asserted definitively, personage key of the made in Italy, which very soon learns to intensify the relationships with industry. At the some time, while the men stretches to “femminilizzarsi”, that is to make sure before classified refinements the feminine sex (specific cure of the body, cosmetics, fascinating linen own), is delineated in the society new protagonist, the woman in career, that also with the dress up expresses her professionally.

The merit to have created the fascination of the woman-manager goes above all to George Armani. The happened one the success Italian designer is such that they began to sign also scents, glasses, umbrellas, scarf and footwear. Years ’80 are closed with the fall of the Berlin wall: the day after the opening of the first rubble, a part of that wall figures already in the display window of the Milan store of Moschino. Years ’90 are characterised by one real radical change of direction. If, in the early stages, full on economic development, were values asserted legacies to the well-being like individualism, hedonism and cult of the power, in first years ’90 reorganised the excesses of the past and all, also the fashion, appears under one more realistic light. From the fall of the Berlin wall in then, the world assists to one series of facts: the Gulf War and the Bosnian crisis, than mine unavoidable the ephemeral certainties matured until that moment. In Italy, in 1992 comes the Tangentopoli light and continues the inquiry “Hands Clean”: the events contribute to unhinge the emergencies coughed up in opulent years ’80, the malaise is concrete and pessimism spreads. Even if in ours prêt-à-porter the export increases ulteriorly, the occupation endures a fort decrease: in the first years of the decade, in fact, 20.000 workplaces disappear, close approximately 300 boutiques, and begin the period of SALES.

The big textile groups take decisions drastic and, between bins restructures and reorganisations, politics of the decollation are made road: part of the production comes that is moved in Countries to low cost of job, through consociate and several formulas of partnership.

This does not say signifies that the made in Italy is irreparably in crisis, because in truth these operation serve also in order to disembark on far markets. About as the tendencies the new decade seems vague and confused; but it is sure that the fine exhibition is by now a surpassed exercise. The designers do not know well which road to take and therefore we assist to continuous revivals: return vogue years ’60, with violent colours and fantasies resumed from Emilio Pucci. This style is above all international from Versace, while Armani continuous his experimentation on fluid and deconstructed lines; Vivienne Westwood reinterprets, with her usual desecrator despiser vein, years ’50. The style gigolò and that one of years ’70 of the riflusso see the become return of without seams, realised in materials alternative to the woven one. The lengths are several, even if that one to the calf is the preferred one; Valentino proposes precious cap lingerie to carry visible. While the Prada style is asserted that, with the minimalism of her dresses, becomes of the griffes of tip made in Italy of years ninety. The end of years ’90 is characterised, in Italy, from evens of great call-back: some creators (Versace, Armani, Valentino, Moschino, Prada, Etro, Ferragamo) inaugurate prestigious store and show rooms on the Madison Avenue of New York in heart of Manhattan, but the more meaningful event, with which of institutionalised the relationship affashion and art is the first edition of the Biennial of the Fashion of Florence: between museums, monuments and galleries of the cities,

In the eneintime the new markets of China, India and Russia are emerging. According to the esteem of Boston Consulting Group, the Chinese absorb already 5% of the assets of luxury. In order it does not make yourself to escape the enormous opportunities trades that appear to the horizon, the main houses are investing huge sums in the distributive net in city like Beijing, Bombay and Moscow. Moreover, the competition not only in every segment of market has been intensified, but also between segments. In past, to acquire by head style heterogeneous, came considered symptom of insufficient elegance. Today, instead, the coupling of heads of high fashion with heads prêt-à-porter, or quite sportswear, as an example, a jacket of Chanel with a pair of jeans, is of all the acceptable one. Consequently, the large one mason of the advanced segment endure the competitive pressure of the more dynamic and innovative companies that operate in the segment of inferior market. Internet, concurring to promote and distribute to heads of apparel also in absence of point sale, exacerbates ulteriorly the competition between the several segments of market, to all advantage of the companies that marks have less prestigious. The fashion, today, is more and more contaminations between styles, kids, fiends, in various ways of use. Survive from the cauldron of the contaminations, only niches of formal apparel from the important occasions and of products for who practicals sport.

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